An Exhibit fit for a Princess

As an avid follower of the British royal family, I have seen more than my fair share of exhibits about Diana, Princess of Wales. I have seen one at Althorp, her ancestral estate, Kensington Palace, Cleveland, Ohio, an elegant exhibit in Hudson’s Bay, Toronto, as well as a truly terrible one at the Design Exchange in Toronto, where I found one of Diana’s famous dresses, (auctioned in 2013 for $80,000 CDN), roped off in the corner of a gift shop.

Almost 25 years after Diana’s death, it is hard to believe that there is sufficient interest to warrant an exhibit. Judging by the gift shop dress, you could say the interest peaked a while ago. This is not the case with Princess Diana: Accredited Access, where it combines two of my interests, photography, and the royal family.

A photography exhibit in as lovely a setting as Casa Loma befits a princess. True, it’s not Buckingham Palace, but it beats a sparse meeting space with video footage on loop. Built in 1914, it is a Gothic Revival mansion and garden in Toronto, which is a popular wedding and film production venue. I highly recommend a visit if you haven’t already done so.

The exhibit features the photos of two generations of royal photographers. While the photography can stand on its own, the audio tour is an absolute must to follow along. Narrated by the photographers, they discuss each photo, the context it was taken, how they took the memorable photos, and the impact. A masterclass if there ever was one.

In her time, Diana was arguably the most photographed woman in the world, she knew how to use the camera to make an impact. One famous photograph of Diana shaking the hands of an AIDs patient, without gloves, did more to dispel myths behind transmission, than any campaign ever could. The imagery is that powerful.

The exhibit was set throughout the historic mansion, winding your way with life sized portraits of Diana, it makes you feel you are in a special place. The life-sized portraits add an impact, bringing you into the scene as no previous exhibit ever has for me. The audio tour wasn’t in chronological order, which makes for a disjoined journey. There is an art installation, inspired by royal millinery, which felt tacked on. Impressive but it felt disjointed without the connection to the previous exhibit. It ends, as all exhibits do, in an exorbitantly expensive gift shop, (sans famous dress). You don’t need to be a fan of Diana to enjoy Princess Diana: Accredited Access, but it helps.

Princess Diana: Accredited Access runs at Casa Loma from April 20, 2022, to June 12, 2022.

 

© Marilyn Braun 2022 

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Regamus ball gown?

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Worn at a ball at Althorp, her family's ancestral estate in 1979, there was little to indicate the global star she would become. At the time of her engagement she had 'one long dress, one skirt and one smart pair of shoes.' When Madame Tussauds requested a dress for her wax figure, Diana gave them this one. You can view the figure here. It was not part of the Christie's auction, but it is still interesting to see how Diana's style evolved from Lady Diana Spencer to the fashion icon who continues to intrigue to this day. 

This off the shoulder, 'Deb gown' was designed by the Couture House of Regamus. It has a nylon lace overlay, with velvet ribbon detail and a matching scarf. Diana and her mother found this dress in the 'French Room' at Harrods. Regamus was a popular brand for aristocratic ladies making their start in fashionable society. 

In 2005, Madame Tussauds auctioned this dress. A bidding war ensued between Kensington Palace and an American nurse, Wendy Rogers-Morris, who is an avid collector of Diana memorabilia. Surprisingly, Kensington Palace lost out. This dress has been exhibited at the Dresses of Inspiration exhibit and at Kensington Palace. 

I cannot locate auction information for Ms. Rogers-Morris to the current owners, Museo de la Moda, in Santiago, Chile. If you visit their Instagram, you can see a short clip of them working on the dress. 

© Marilyn Braun 2020 

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Sources

Diana and the language of her clothes

Lady Diana Spencer Althorp Ball Gown

Her Fashion Story

The only dress she owned when she got engaged

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Black Silk-Crepe and Diamante dress?

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Diana wore some beautiful dresses during her 1992 trip to India, including a magnificent Mughal beaded gown no one got to see! Although not as colourful, this dress is just as stunning. It was worn with the Spencer tiara, to attend a banquet hosted by Vice President Dr. Shanka Dayal Sharma at the Nizam of Hyderbad, India in February 1992. She also wore it again in March 1992 to the premiere of Hear My Song.

It was lot 39 in the Christie's Auction. It is described in the auction catalogue: A Long Evening Dress of Black Silk Crepe and Diamante Paste Embroidery:

In Empire style, the bodice is embroidered in a manner inspired by Mughal embroidery.The black silk crepe skirt is gently gathered at the bodice. 

 

Catherine Walker, the designer of the dress, offers further insight,

This dress was commissioned for an official visit to India. The more research I did for this dress the more I became lost in the rich complex pattern of Indian culture and its hybridization with the British influence of the Raj. I knew the Princess was intending to wear the Spencer tiara, and my daughter Marianne found a beautiful book for me on the decorative art of India, in which I came upon a sandalwood and ivory inlaid casket whose design seemed to compliment the tiara perfectly. The technical design of the embroidery drew upon this traditional pattern of marquetry, and the flatness of the stones is also particular to Indian jewellery. 

It was originally bought at the Christie's auction by Kate McEnroe, head of American Movie Classics channel/WE Tv for $42,500. They purchased two other dresses at the sale, and acquired a fourth one privately. 

They bought the dresses based on the romance Diana inspired. The network took their dresses on a shopping malls of America tour, with the tagline "Princess Diana's tour of Dresses to Die for". When Diana died, they renamed the tour 'Legacy of Love'. In 2007, the dress was included in an Auctioned Dress Reunion exhibit held at Appleton Museum of Art in Ocala, Florida and later in a Diana, Dresses of Inspiration exhibit. 

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It was subsequently auctioned in 2011 by Julien's Auctions in Beverly Hills for $144,000. The owners are the Museo De La Moda in Chile. They have a reciprocal relationship with Historic Royal Palaces and have lent this dress, and several others, to Kensington Palace exhibits. 

Sources

Princess Diana Dresses sell for $276,000 at auction

Lady Diana $276,000 dresses wow the crowd at Julien's auctions

Julien's Auction Results - Diana, Princess of Wales Worn Gown

The Lady and the Rose - Diana: Her Fashion Story exhibit

Christie's Auction Catalogue; DRESSES from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales

Catherine Walker - Autobiography of The Personal Couturier to Diana, Princess of Wales

© Marilyn Braun 2020 

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's pink Zandra Rhodes dress

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 Zandra Rhodes designed 10 dresses for Diana, this pretty dress was included in the Christie's dress auction in 1997. Lot 47 is described in the auction catalogue as A Mid-Length Dinner Dress in Pink Silk Chiffon.

The fabric printed in white on pink silk, with a design of pearl necklaces and lace. The gathered neckline has a pointed collar, edged with simulated pearls, glass beads and paste with pink satin cording. The skirt, pleated to below the hip has a pointed hem, echoing the pattern on the collar, edged with pearls and glass beads and trimmed with paste in lozenges and circles.

The Princess wore this dress to a State Banquet in Kyoto during her official visit to Japan in 1986, where she is photographed eating with upside down chopsticks. She wore it about three or four times: July 1985 at a Torvill and Dean party, Charleston Manor, Seaford Britain in aid of the London City Ballet and the Purcell school in July 1987. 

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At the original Christie's auction, it was sold to Melissa Scripps for $27,600. It was displayed as part of Suzanne King's Pink Ribbons Charity Exhibits, Dresses for a Cause at the Appleton Museum of Art in 2007, and as part of Kensington Palace's exhibit, Diana, Fashions and Style in 2008. The dress apparently passed through a few hands before it was subsequently auctioned in 2011 through Kerry Taylor Auction house for $35,000. The new owners are Historic Royal Palaces where it is now part of their Ceremonial Dress Collection.

© Marilyn Braun 2020 

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Sources

One of Princess Diana's Gowns Saved by Kensington Palace

Lot 47 Zandra Rhodes Chiffon Dress

5-minutes with Zandra Rhodes

Everything Royal - The Diana Dresses

Zandra Rhodes talks friendship with Princess Diana

Kerry Taylor Auctions

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Sequinned Pink and Cream One-sleeve Gown by Catherine Walker

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So far, this is possibly the only dress whose colour has been influenced by the World Cup Championship. 

Lot 65 in the Christie's auction is described as 'A Long Evening Dress in Ivory Silk Crepe, by Catherine Walker'

The one-sleeved dress is embroidered in pink sequins and woven with gold thread to give the effect of shadowy flowers. The neckline is trimmed with sequins. 

It was worn during an official visit to Brazil in April 1991. The colour of the sequins was a safe one. Catherine Walker noted in her autobiography, 

The Princess of Wales took great care to honour the traditions and feelings of each country that she visited. Shortly before this visit to Brazil, the national football team had lost to Argentina in the World Cup and...in view of these circumstances we should not design anything in green, yellow and blue, which were the official colours of the team and definitely not in blue and white, which were the colours of the Argentinian football team. 

Diana wore it a second time, in August 1991, to the premiere of Stepping Out. She attended the after party where she was photographed laughing and chatting with Liza Minelli. 

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Maureen Rorech Dunkle paid $35,600 for the dress, and as with all of the dresses she purchased, this was a strategic bid, 

"From a geographic standpoint, I wanted most of the continents represented in my collection, and this was the first selection the Princess had worn in South America."

This dress, formed part of her popular Dresses for Humanity tour. In 2010, all of the dresses went up for auction in Toronto. This was a controversial sale and only three of the dresses met their reserve prices. The ten remaining dresses, including this one, were once again auctioned in 2013, this time at Kerry Taylor Auction House. Historic Royal Palaces bought two of dresses, paying £78,000 for this one and a dramatic black velvet Bruce Oldfield dress. Both now form part of the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection. 

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© Marilyn Braun 2020 

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Sources

Princess Diana Boutique: Diana's two gowns go on permanent display at Kensington Palace

Two of Diana's iconic dresses go on display at Kensington Palace

My Decade with Diana by Maureen Rorech Dunkle

Christies: DRESSES from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales Auction catalogue

Catherine Walker - An Autobiography By The Private Couturier to Diana, Princess of Wales

Diana's Dresses - Dresses for Humanity exhibition program

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's strapless black Emanuel dress?

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That dress. It wasn't included in the Christie's auction. Surprisingly, it didn't even belong to Diana. It is as iconic as the Revenge dress, but arguably, not as well known. Nonetheless, it marked a turning point in public perception, bookending distinct fashion styles. The 'revenge dress' was seen as powerful, a jettison of the past and royal expectations. The engagement dress was seen as a misstep before she was expected to fall into line. Lady Diana Spencer was 19 year old at her first official event after the engagement announcement. Who knew this unremarkable, nursery school teacher, could be so dazzling? The royals and the press clearly did not know what would hit them. 

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The dress was created by David and Elizabeth Emanuel. It was made of black silk taffeta, with embroidered with black sequins. It was strapless, low cut with a tight corseted bodice and full gathered skirt. Diana would wear many of their outfits including the pink blouse she wore for her Vogue cover shoot and the Diaghliv dress. But no outfits were more significant than this and the wedding dress of the century.  

However, it was not made for Diana. It wasn't new and it had already been lent to actress Liza Goddard. It was a sample Diana saw, hanging on a rail, when she visited their store looking for a 'grown up' dress to wear. She tried it on and loved it and the couple made a shawl of the same material so she could cover up on the night. Little did the Emmanuel's know what a furor the dress would cause, when Diana bent over to step out of the limousine. When Prince Charles exited the car first, he said to the waiting media, 'You want to see what's coming next'. 

She wore the dress on March 9, 1981, at a music and verse recital at Goldsmiths' Hall; her first public event with Prince Charles, after the engagement announcement. At this event she met Princess Grace of Monaco, who was giving a poetry reading at the event. She commiserated with Diana over the media frenzy, joking that it would get a lot worse. Diana's first solo engagement as a member of the royal family would be Princess Grace's 1983 funeral. 

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Although the press and public loved the dress and instantly raised Diana to fashion icon status, the royals were not as impressed. For the royals, black was worn at funerals, not for glamorous events. Forget that Queen Elizabeth II  and Princess Margaret had both worn similar black, strapless gowns in their day; albeit with less cleavage showing. The next day, photos of Diana made headlines, relegating UK Budget Day to the middle of the newspaper. The Iranian edition of Time also found the dress too revealing and had her bare shoulders blacked in. 

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After the event, Diana had lost so much weight in the lead up to the royal wedding, she returned the gown to have it taken in. Instead, the Emmanuel's kept the original and made Diana a new, smaller version. Which Diana wore a few years later, without the original's memorable effect. 

 It was auctioned on June 8, 2010 by Kerry Taylor auctions for $276,000. The winning bidder was Fundacion Museuo De La Moda in Chile. Their museum boasts the largest collection of Diana's auctioned dresses. The owner of the museum, Jorge Yarur announced, upon his death, this gown and all of the other Diana dresses he owns, will be donated to Kensington Palace. 

© Marilyn Braun 2020 

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Sources

Diana - The Fashion Princess by Davina Hanmer and Tim Graham

A Dress for Diana - David Emanuel and Elizabeth Emanuel

'Iconic' Diana dress sells for $276,000

Symbol of Enigmatic Princess Up for Auction

Diana engagement dress sells for £192,000

A Dress A Day Profile Continues with the Black Strapless Taffeta Gown by the Emanuels

Long-lost dress of Princess Diana's sells for £192,000

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Silk Chiffon Purple Tulip and Green Leaves dress?

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This Catherine Walker dress was worn official visit to Nigeria, at a State Banquet in Lagos on March 15, 1989.  It is a stunning dress but unfortunately, I don't think she wore it more than once. Lot 69 Described in the auction catalogue

Of white silk chiffon, printed with deep purple tulips and green leaves, the bodice of this dress is folded in a pleat-like design to the hip and crossed over at the neck with a long streamer down the back. The dress has a low back and a gathered skirt of many metres of chiffon over white silk crepe, with a white silk petticoat.

Harper's Bazaar purchased the dress for $25,300. In 1998 it was donated by Mrs. Randolph Hearst, to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  It joins another Catherine Walker ballgown in their collection, which they also reluctantly accepted. At the time of the Christie's auction, Richard Martin, curator of the Costume Institute stated:

"This is the last great Cinderella story of the 20th century," Mr. Martin said earlier yesterday, "but that's not what the Metropolitan Museum looks for." He added that Diana's dresses had "associational" value because they were worn by her but did not in his view have historic or artistic value.

Even after her death, they continued holding this view.

While the Costume Institute had publicly stated it would not bid to buy any of Princess Diana's dresses in the 1997 Christie's auction, we said we might receive one in due course. Due or not, we have received two Catherine Walker ballgowns, both very characteristic of the princess' style for ceremonial but youthful evening wear. 

Would we have accepted the dresses if there had been no association with Diana? Probably not. But while I would not wish the Costume Institute to serve the cult of celebrity, clothing does not entirely lose its social an emotional dimensions simply because it is being considered by a museum. Fashion remains whole and human - always intimate, always feeling - and so must the museum's judgements. 

To date, the museum still owns this dress.

© Marilyn Braun 2020

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Sources

Met Museum: Ballgown 1989
Our New Clothes: Acquisitions of the 1990s
Met Publications: Recent Acquisitions, A Selection 1997-1998.
Browse the Met collection: Ballgown spring/summer 1990
Diana cleans out her closet and charities just clean up

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Golden Falcon Gown?

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As I've mentioned in previous posts (and in future ones too!), Diana knew how to pay tribute to the country she visited on royal tours. This is very much evident in her trip to Saudi Arabia, where she wore a dress embroidered with falcons, a symbol of courage and force.

Lot 64 is described as a Formal Dinner Dress of Cream Silk

The dress is embroidered with a flight of gold and silver sequinned falcons on the bodice and the train. The long sleeves and high neck of this dress enabled the Princess to conform to the customs of Saudi Arabia for which this dress was made for an official visit. The falcons are a compliment to the ruling house.

According to the designer, the falcon embroidery was applied, after the dress was made so the bird silhouettes could flow uninterrupted by the seams. In choosing the style, Diana was conforming to the custom of long sleeves, high neckline and hemlines to cover the ankle for both day and evening wear. It was worn for a private dinner in Saudi Arabia in 1986, thus there are no public photos of her wearing it.

It was bought by Pat Kerr, at the original Christie's auction, for $31,000. She also bought the Murray Arbeid silk tulle dance dress, and two others. To date, she still owns all four dresses; which she has loaned for various events including Diana fashion exhibits at Kensington Palace.

Update: On June 26, 2025, the Falcon dress was included in Julien's Auctions Princess Diana Style and Royal Collection sale. 28 years and 1 day after it originally sold at Christie's on June 25, 1997. It was sold to an unidentified buyer for $455,000.

© Marilyn Braun 2020

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Princess Diana Forever - The Gulf States
Princess Diana Boutique - Another look at the Golden Falcon Gown worn in Saudi Arabia
Top Designer Cherishes Gowns Owned by Diana
Princess Diana's iconic dresses on show for anniversary
Dresses that tell a story: Princess Diana's life in fashion

Historic sale of Princess Diana's Fashion is generating huge interest
Catherine Walker: An Autobiography by The Private Couturier to Diana, Princess of Wales
Diana: Her Life in Fashion by Georgina Howell
Christie's Auction Catalogue: DRESSES from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Emerald Satin Victorian Ballgown?

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This is my least favourite dress. I have never liked the way it looks It seems like it is trying to be a combination of two or three dresses. I think Victorian dresses are truly beautiful, but this modern incarnation, I just don't think it works or suited Diana in general.

It was designed by Victor Edelstein, who created some truly beautiful dresses for her, including the iconic Travolta and a glorious white satin embroidered dress she wore in France. That particular dress has gone on its own journey and I will write about it in a future article. 

It is described in the catalogue as an 1880's inspired ball dress of deep emerald green satin by Victor Edelstein

The dress with a deep collar, over small cap sleeves with self-covered buttons down the fitted front. The full skirt has a drape and bustle effect, ruched and gathered, trimmed and piping. 

It is difficult to locate photos of the dress on its own (the image above is the only embeddable one I could find), but this blog article has some fantastic images, along with this one. It was worn for official portraits by Terrance Donovan. In one, Diana appears almost unrecognizable in this official portrait.  However, she did wear it in public at an Anglo-Spanish ball on November 25,1987. This is the only press coverage I could find.

Lot 34 in the Christie's auction, Mejiro Fashion and Art College in Tokyo paid $27,600 for it. The dress and two others, including the Yuki one are still owned by the College. The dresses are kept in a climate controlled room and brought out for special occasions, such as the first day of school and on the 10-anniversary of the school. From time to time, they lend the to dresses Kensington Palace for fashion exhibits.

© Marilyn Braun 2020

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.


Damask and Diplomacy
Style Queen: Princess Diana dress exhibition unveils the iconic looks that have been added to the collection
Desired Dresses: Princess Diana dresses return to the UK from Tokyo

Whatever happened to Jacques Azagury's blue and black sparkly dance dress?

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Continuing on with the 'OMG what was I thinking when I wore this?' theme, we have a ballerina length dance dress by Jacques Azagury. When you see this dress, you know exactly what decade it came from. The Christie's auction catalogue describes Lot #22 as:

The dropped bodice gives a 'flapper' or 'twenties' effect to this dance dress. The bodice is of black rayon, simulating velvet, embroidered with shiny blue stars and flower beads on a background of sprinkled multi-coloured glass beads. The full skirt of two layers of brilliant blue organza, is trimmed with a bow at the hip and has a black simulated silk petticoat. 

This is the kind of dress you find in your closet, mentally revisit your 80s fashion choices, then put it back. People magazine thought differently and paid $26,450 for it. This isn't the first time a dress was bought by a publication. Paris Match, and You Magazine each purchased dresses to give away as contest prizes. Can you imagine winning a Diana dress? The only royal items I've ever won is a book of Prince Philip quotes and a t-shirt with the Queen on it.  

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Regardless, Diana looked stunning and she wore it on several occasions. It was worn during two royal tours. At a banquet given by the Mayor of Florence in 1985 and Canada in 1986 for a Vancouver Symphony Orchestra performance. She also wore it in January 1988 for a London City ballet performance at Britannic House. It was designed by Jacques Azagury, who has a section on his website about her. He also designed costumes for the Diana biopic starring Naomi Watts.

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As far as I can tell, it is still owned by People Magazine. They have lent the dress to Historic Royal Palaces for their popular Fashion Rules exhibit. It has also appeared on the Queen Mary Diana dress exhibit. Proving that there are many people are actually willing to pay to revisit their 1980s fashion choices.

Update: In December 2023, the dress was sold by Julien's Auction house for a record-breaking $1,148,080, making it the highest price of any gown worn by Diana.  The buyer is unknown.

© Marilyn Braun 2020

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Princess Diana’s dress sells at auction for nearly £1 million
The Londonist: Regal Fashion Rules at Kensington Palace
Iconic royal fashion exhibition includes dress on loan from PeopleJacques Azagury - DianaEverything Royal - The Diana DressesPrincess Diana is radiant - January 13, 1988 in a Jacques Azagury gown for Britannic House BalletHow Princess Diana's Go-To Designer Recreated Her Iconic Looks For The BiopicPrincess Diana's royal couture dresses go on display at exhibition

Royal Review: Imagining Diana by Diane Clehane

Imagining Diana joins the ranks of the 'Diana is still alive' genre. Usually the plot revolves around Diana escaping her royal life in a cloud of secrecy, constantly looking over her shoulder. The most famous woman in the world wears a disguise and adjusts to life as a regular person, until revealing her true self to a romantic interest who accepts her, Andrew Morton biography and all.

Imagining Diana is different. On that fateful night in Paris, moments before impact, she buckled her seatbelt and survived. But Diana is not unscathed. She has a scar on the side of her famous face. Noticeable, but not prominent enough to drastically change her appearance and negatively impact her photogenic appeal.

Surviving makes her feel more empowered, capable of relating to people better and greater opportunities on the world's stage. Or so the author tells us. While Diana's growth is compelling, the author tells us what happens, rather than shows us, thus skimming the surface of an intriguing concept. After years of therapy, the protection of a wealthy suitor, and the best plastic surgeons at her disposal, Diana can afford to live a charmed existence. The negative is minimized. What would have been more interesting, is watching her cope with the financial resources she was left with, rather than depending on the kindness of others, like the royal family, the Al Fayed's or in this case, billionaire Teddy Forstmann. She may have survived the crash and become a more empathetic person, but, even in this alternate universe, she has a luxurious lifestyle to maintain.

But we never get a sense of conflict in her interactions with the people you would expect her to, like Mohammed Al Fayed, Camilla, the Queen and eventually Catherine Middleton. Diana gets along with everyone. We are led to believe she would never feel threatened by Catherine or meddle in her media coverage. Perhaps the most unrealistic, becoming her ex-husband's trusted confidant, and  encouraging him to marry Camilla, who has been conveniently sidelined. Diana is inserted into events she would have attended, like Prince William's graduation from university, his wedding and eventually meeting her grandchildren. It's easy to rewrite history when you leave a space for her.

Despite this, Imagining Diana is riveting reading and I had a hard time putting the book down. As Diana walks off into the distance, I felt things were just getting started. With no historical scenarios to place her, exploring her future would be uncharted territory. I wanted to continue following Diana's journey as she adjusted to growing older and how her position in the royal family would have evolved during Charles' reign and eventually William's. As it is, we will never know. But Imagining Diana gives us a poignant idea of what might have been.

© Marilyn Braun 2020

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.


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Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Catherine Walker cream and salmon pink long dinner dress?

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Of the 79 dresses, this is, hands down, my absolute favourite. It is timeless, classic and if anyone could have worn it better, I haven't seen a photo. Nope, don't even show me one.  I will die on that hill, trust me. Sure, the word salmon doesn't sound attractive, but just look at photos of Diana. If anyone can make salmon look good, it is her.

Aside from my interest in it, this dress is hard to single out. Yes, it has large shoulder pads from the 1980s, but I don't think this negatively impacts the appearance. It also doesn't have elaborate beading, or a feature that would make it stand out from the rest of the auctioned gowns. It isn't associated with a famous figure, like the Elvis or Travolta dresses. As far as I can tell, it wasn't worn during an official tour.

Instead, it worn at a Royal Charity Performance of Swan Lake at the London Coliseum in November 1989. The gala was in support of the rare Russian Bewick swans that migrate to Great Britain during the winter. A year later at a tribute to Dame Margo Fonteyn. In 1992 for an Australian ballet performance Coppélia at the London Coliseum, and in July 1993 for a London engagement. Like many of Diana's other dresses, it has also appeared on a Franklin Mint commemorative doll.

This dress was chosen from a collection and original had a plunging neckline, which Diana thought was too daring. An insert was added in front but it plunges in the back, so I guess you could say both Diana and the dress designer got their way.

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It is described in the auction catalogue as: A long dinner dress of cream and salmon pink silk.

The dress has long sleeves and the bodice is of cream silk, cut to reveal an under bodice. The skirt, of salmon pink silk is slit at the back and the cuff to the sleeves are set with large gilt cufflinks, set with Baroque pearls. 

It was Lot #71 at the Christie's auction and purchased for $25,300 by Sheri and Bill Graham from Salisbury, North Carolina.It has been displayed at the Appleton Museum in Florida, charity functions and for educational purposes, such as middle school projects. It has also been included as part of "Diana: Legacy of a Princess" exhibit on the Queen Mary ship.

As of 2017, they still owns the dress along with another Catherine Walker purchased during the auction. They have declined offers to sell them. However, if they ever do for this one, I'll be happy to consider it.

© Marilyn Braun 2020

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Sources

Princess Diana captivates the world 20 years after her death
The exclusive Diana dress exhibit opens Sunday
Catherine Walker - An autobiography by The Private Couturier to Diana, Princess of Wales.
Christies: Dresses from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales auction catalogue

What happened to Princess Diana's Pink Silk Mughal dress by Catherine Walker

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As mentioned in a previous post, Diana elevated diplomatic dressing to an art form. This dress is another excellent example. It was designed by Catherine Walker  a favoured couturier who dressed Diana from 1982 until her death in 1997.

Lot #19 in the Christie's auction, it is described in the catalogue as 'A long Evening Dress of Pink Wild Silk, with an embroidered red bolero'.

It is further described:

The strapless bodice is embroidered overall with pink and white flowers, some couched, with green sequins, star-shaped sequins, gold glass beads and gold braid, echoing Mughal embroidery motifs. The long sleeved bolero jacket, has a bodice embroidered overall en suite with the dress. The cuffs each have three, fine buttons of pink and green paste. The dress was made for the Princess' India tour in 1992.

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Inspiration for the embroidery came from the lid of an Indian inlaid marquetry box found in a London market. The thread and needlework were chosen to reflect the country she was visiting and the embroidery was completed by S. Lock Ltd.

The 1992 India visit was Charles and Diana's second to last tour together before they separated in December of the same year. It led to some memorable images: the photo of Diana alone at the Taj Mahal, and another of her turning her head as Charles tried to kiss her. She wore several fantastic outfits in India but considering the amount of beautiful and intricate detail in this dress, I can't locate a single photo of Diana wearing it during the tour. The only photo of Diana in the dress was taken for the 1997 auction catalogue by Lord Snowdon.

It was bought by Maureen Dunkle Rorech, for $61,900. She purchased 14 gowns, including the Travolta dress but this one was her personal favourite. It went around the world in the Dresses for Humanity tour. I originally saw the exhibit in 1998 when it came to Toronto, but the dresses toured various locations, including Disney World, Pittsburgh Home and Garden Show, and the Flying Monkey movie house in New Hampshire. However, the tour ran into trouble with creditors and in 2010, this dress was confiscated for five months until the debt was paid.

This dress, along with 9 others originally purchased by Ms. Rorech, was auctioned in 2013 by Kerry Taylor Auctions. It was bought for £66,000 ($82,000 USD) by William Doyle, CEO of Newbridge Silverware Museum in Kildaire, Ireland. It is currently on display in their Museum of Style Icons exhibit.

Photo © Kenneth Allen (cc-by-sa/2.0)

© Marilyn Braun 2020

 Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Sources

Princess Diana in India: A look back at her iconic visit
Princess Diana's Mughal dress to go under the Hammer
Diana Auction 1997
Princess Diana’s dresses fetch £800,000 at Kerry Taylor Auctions
The Diana Dresses
Shamed Florida socialite is forced to sell Diana's iconic dresses to pay off debts: But will Prince William buy them back?

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Diagheliv inspired dress?

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Searching for David and Elizabeth Emanuel, you will find most media coverage includes Diana, Princess of Wales. Attempt to find information about the Emanuel's Diaghilev collection, and it will only find a cursory mention in relation to this dress.  That's both a curse and a blessing. You will always have a place in the history books but searches will revolve around Diana and not what you have done before or since. It is understandable. Let's face it, they designed some of the most significant items Diana has ever worn, including the white chiffon blouse she wore for a Vogue photoshoot and the famous strapless black dress for her first engagement. Oh, and also the wedding dress of the century!

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Although striking, this dress is not nearly as iconic. It has a unique, costume-like quality, which is appropriate as it was inspired by Leon Bakst's designs for Diaghilev ballet Russes. It was one of twelve dresses from the Emmanuel's Diaghilev collection. Diana first saw it at a Red Cross benefit fashion show in the summer of 1986. Many designers have commented that Diana had the perfect figure. So perfect that Diana chose the size 10 dress from the mannequin instead of ordering her own version. It came with a matching padded headband with gold ribbon and pearls, lozenge shaped sleeve panels and petticoat. Diana wore the dress with and without these accessories and wore a tiara instead of the headband on occasion. She wore it in public about three times: for a performance of Ivan the Terrible at the Royal Opera House, a James Bond premiere and a banquet at the German Embassy in London.

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It was lot #26 at the Christie's 1997 auction, purchased for $25,300 by Fontaine Minor, a socialite from Richmond, Virginia.  She was interviewed for the documentary Diana's Dresses. Clearly proud and protective of it, the dress is propped up in a chair behind her. Beside the dress is an expressionless security guard, no doubt reconsidering his life choices.

Like most of Diana's dresses, it has not been kept in a closet. It has appeared at many charity events, to raise money for Richmond- area organizations such as the Richmond Ballet and Symphony Orchestra, a mother/daughter tea at Jefferson's Hotel Grand Ballroom, modelled by Ms. Minor's daughter and granddaughters, and put on exhibit at Kensington Palace. It was auctioned in December 2013 for $167,433, with proceeds split between charities favoured by Diana and Ms. Minor and her family.

The buyer is listed as an unidentified 'overseas museum'. As this could mean anywhere from Antarctica to Tuvalu, the search continues. It has been 7 years since the auction so I'm hoping they will reveal their name and put the dress on display for people to enjoy for many years to come.

Update: In 2017 it was included in a Remembering Diana exhibit at the Museo de la Moda in Chile.

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© Marilyn Braun 2020

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.


Sources

Richmonder putting Di's dress up for auction in England
Diana's dress sells for £120K
The "Gold Diagheliv" Gown is auctioned in London
Auction brings seven-fold bounty for Diana dress
A Princess Tea Party
Princess Diana's favourite fairytale dress could be yours...for a price
Going, Going, Gone! Di's Defrocked
The Creation of a Designer House
Diana's Dresses - Documentary
New owners of Diana's dresses come to Christie's to collect their gowns
Being There: An Affair to Remember
The Frocks that Became a Princess

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Murray Arbeid Blue Silk Tulle dance dress?

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I've always thought this looked like an 80's prom dress. With the diamante stars and excessive layers of tulle, it has a 'what was I thinking when I wore it?' vibe. Fast forward 34 years and, as far as I'm concerned, the verdict is still out.

Diana must have liked the dress, because she wore it on several occasions. It was made for a private dinner given by former King Constantine of Hellenes at Claridges in 1986. She also wore it with shocking pink gloves to the premiere of Phantom of the Opera, The Royal Opera House in Covent Garden and in Paris in 1988.  She even modelled it for the Christie's auction catalogue.

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It is described as 'A Ballerina-Length strapless Dance Dress.' According to the auction catalogue:

Of midnight blue silk tulle, the dress has a dropped waistline, the bodice is dropped with vertical pleats and embroidered with diamante brilliants placed at random. The top layer of the tulle skirt is embroidered with diamante stars. The skirt comprises four layers of tulle, with a deep purple silk petticoat, the bodice is also lined with deep purple silk to create a shimmering effect. 

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The dress was lot 28 at the Christie's auction in 1997 and sold for $48,300 to Memphis philanthropist and fashion designer, Pat Kerr Tigrett. She bought four dresses at the auction, paying $133,000, but the tulle one was the most expensive. She has a significant collection of royal memorabilia and textiles, dating back to the 17th century, including items belonging to Queen Victoria and the Duchess of Windsor.

However, shortly after she purchased the tulle dress she found another version, advertised as the original in The Mint Museum in Charlotte, North Carolina. That dress was owned by Gene London and John Thomas, New York dealers in theatrical costumes who claimed the dress was sold to them by the original Christies buyer.

Although Ms. Tigrett, purchased the dress from Christies, the actual design was not unique, or exclusive to Diana. In fact, Murray Arbeid, who died in 2011, made several. According to the designer, in an interview for a documentary about the auctioned dresses:

"That dress was a very, very successful dress in the collection and there is certainly more than one of them. I would like to say, many more, there are possibly 15, 20 of them still floating around. It was a very good evening dress and after all, the Princess never said, 'this has got to be the only one, you mustn't make it for anybody else'. Simple as that."

After Diana's death, Ms. Tigrett kept the four dresses out of the spotlight to avoid the macabre frenzy that followed. In 2002 she allowed her four gowns to be included in an exhibit at the Tennessee State Museum. Two of her Diana dresses were included in the Kensington Palace exhibit Diana: Her Fashion Story.

As of 2020, she still owns her dresses. In 2013 she lent the Arbeid, for three years, to Kensington Palace for their Fashion Rules exhibit. It was the first time it had been exhibited in the UK. Afterwards, it made a newsworthy return to Memphis on what would have been Diana's 55th birthday.

© Marilyn Braun 2020

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Was museum duped by copy of dress?
Commercial Reader: Fashions
The Princess's old clothes definitely duds
Books, Birkins and Beauty: Fashion Rules at Kensington Palace - Part III
Murray Arbeid has a few words about Diana, Fergie, Moms of the bride and happy hour chic
Whatever happened to Princess Diana's dresses?
DRESSES from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales, Christie's auction catalogue
Diana, Woman of Style by Jackie Modlinger
Diana - Her Life in Fashion by Georgina Howell

Whatever happened to Diana's Christina Stambolian's 'Revenge Dress'?

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In my quest to track down Diana's auctioned dresses to the current owners, I've started running into details I did not consider. Such is the case with this dress.

The Christina Stambolian isn't just any dress. It is famous as Diana's 'Revenge Dress.' She famously wore it in June 1994, on the night her husband confessed adultery on television. What should have been his moment to set a record straight, became the perfect moment for Diana to shine.

When the dress was designed, it was a one-and-only, special, made-to-measure for Diana. She had purchased it late summer 1991, but it would be three years before she wore it on that fateful night. At the time she was against black. Because the dress was so daring, she considered having it made in ivory, but she thought it would be too virginal. The short black, silk jacquard, off-the-shoulder dress with vee bodice falling onto a chiffon skirt, was made with Italian fabrics from Como. Paired with black tights, high heels and her famous sapphire, diamond and pearl choker, the dress was a showstopper.

The original dress was lot #2 at the 1997 Christie's auction. It was sold to Graeme and Briege Mackenzie of Gourock Scotland, for $74,000.  The couple have used the dress to raise funds for Scottish charities. On Christina Stambolian's website, she confirms he purchased it. One article mentions he keeps the dress in a bank vault and brings it out as a big draw for major Scottish charity fundraisers. But he bought the dress over 20 years ago. Does he still own it? If not, where did it go from there?

I was excited when I tracked it down to the Museum of Style Icons and Newbridge Silver Museum in Kildaire, Ireland where it is on permanent exhibit. Or did I? As mentioned in previous posts, several of Diana's dresses have been auctioned multiple times, frequently by Kerry Taylor. The Revenge Dress is clearly labelled a 'replica,' in the March 17, 2011 Kerry Taylor auction catalogue. William Doyle, CEO of the museum, acquired the dress on display around the same time.

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What is known, in 2010 Christina Stambolian created an exact replica of the revenge dress using the same material and Diana's measurements. Given the dress is identical, the Diana connection is there, whether she wore it or not. The replica comes with a letter of authenticity from the designer that this version and the one worn by Diana, are the only two in existence and she has no intention of producing more.

I have found little media coverage of Graeme's MacKenzie's ownership. You would think there would be more news about the whereabouts, especially if it has been used to raise funds for charity. One would think the charity would at least have some mention of its presence at an event, or amounts raised because of it, but I haven't found anything. This is not the case with other owners, who are happy to publicize how their dresses have been used for good. Many have been loaned to Kensington Palace fashion exhibits. The Museum of Style Icons and Newbridge Silverware lent their replica dress for the Passion for Fashion 300 years of style exhibit at Blenheim Palace in 2017. One thing that makes me think it is still in Mr. Mackenzie's possession is, given the historic significance, it would cause a great stir if the original ever came up for auction.

But it is hard to know for sure. No media coverage mentioned it was a replica when it was auctioned in 2011. So, does Mr. Mackenzie still own the original Revenge dress? For now that remains a mystery.

© Marilyn Braun 2020

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Sources

Christina Stambolian - My Story
Newbridge Silverware welcomes two of Princess Diana's most iconic garments
Princess Diana's Revenge Dress Dubbed 'Too Revealing' Auctioned for This Much Money
Newbridge Silverware - Princess Diana Style Icon
Princess Diana's famous Revenge Dress comes to Kildaire
Remembering Princess Diana: Her Fashion Legacy
Diana: Woman of Style by Jackie Modlinger
Dresses from the collection of Diana, Princess of Wales auction catalogue

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Dramatic Black Velvet Evening Gown by Bruce Oldfield?

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Picture it. Diana, in all her 'Dynasty Di' glory, circa 1985. Alighting from her car, she is wearing a gloriously luxe black velvet gown by one of her favourite designers, Bruce Oldfield.

This dress has always been a favourite of mine. When I saw the dress for the first time at an exhibit in 1998, I wasn't sure it was the right one. Sure, it was black velvet, designed by Bruce Oldfield, but looking behind the dress, it had a black velvet rose with sparkling beads at the neckline. This detail is not apparent in photographs of Diana wearing it. But sure enough, it was there. According to the designer, the detail was added to prevent the dress from falling off Diana's shoulders.


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It was ordered by Diana after her friend, fashion editor, Anna Harvey, wore a similar design. It has a deep v-neck in front and back, draped waist and lightly gathered skirt. It was worn in 1985 at The Barbican for the first night gala performance of Les Miserables.  Diana also wore it in an official portrait by Lord Snowdon.

The dress was Lot #37 at the Christie's auction and purchased by Barbara Jordan, a Boston boutique owner. Ms. Jordan bought three dresses, paying $36,800 for the velvet Oldfield.  She bought it to publicize her boutique by displaying the dresses in the window and after Diana's death, it became somewhat of a shrine. A noted philanthropist, Ms. Jordan donated the dress to a Boston AIDS charity. It was auctioned by Skinner Gallery in October 1997 and purchased by Maureen Rorech for $200,000.

This dress travelled the world in the Dresses for Humanity tour and was eventually auctioned in 2013. Historic Royal Palaces confirmed it had purchased the gown for $68,000.

© Marilyn Braun 2020

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Sources

Bruce Oldfield Black Velvet Gown
Princess Diana's iconic dresses to go on display at Kensington Palace
DRESSES from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales auction catalogue
Dresses for Humanity exhibition catalogue
My Decade with Diana by Maureen Rorech Dunkel

The Journey of Princess Diana's 'Elvis' Dress that launched a legal battle

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After her wedding dress and the John Travolta dress, Diana's Elvis dress might be the third most well known of her outfits. Designed by Catherine Walker it is a remarkable example of craftsmanship and elegance, adding to the allure of an iconic princess.

The strapless sheath dress, in tinted white crepe silk, is embroidered with simulated pearls and white sequins. The jacket, with a stand up collar inspired by Elizabethan ruff, is edged in pearls. Designed for an official visit to Hong Kong in November 1989, the embroidery was by S. Lock Ltd. It was also worn for the British fashion awards in Albert Hall, London in 1989, in Budapest, and film premieres. Despite the original Elizabethan nod, it was nicknamed the 'Elvis dress.' It is estimated there are 20,000 hand embroidered pearls, and according to the designer, “What is not apparent from the pictures is the weight of the dress, which was immense“ 

Diana included the gown in her DRESSES from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales auction in June 1997. Prince William, who came up with the idea for the auction, thought the dress was ugly and reportedly said, "Mummy, it is too awful to sell." Thankfully Diana did not listen to him as the dress turned out to have the second highest bid. A Terrance Donovan photograph of Diana, wearing the gown and Lover's Knot tiara, is featured in the auction catalogue opposite a personal letter from Diana. 

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The dress was lot #78 at the auction. It sold for $151,000 to Lynda and Stewart Resnick, owners (at the time) of the Franklin Mint, as well as POM Wonderful and Fiji Water brands. According to court documents, when Lynda Resnick bought the dress at auction, ‘she did not intend to commercially exploit it.’

Nonetheless, the Resnick’s filed a trademark application on August 8, 1997 to produce “Diana - A forever Princess”, a 12-inch porcelain doll in a replica outfit. To ensure authenticity, Ms. Resnick had her staff count the beads so buyers would know the exact number on the original (22,000). The doll's dress was designed to scale with 2,000 hand-beaded fake pearls. The doll was an immediate hit and can still be found on eBay. 

In September 1997, the Resnicks made further trademark applications to use various product titles, including ‘Diana, the People’s Princess,’ Diana, Queen of Hearts,’ Diana, Angel of Mercy' and more. The Diana, Princess of Wales, Memorial Fund, authorized by Diana's Estate as the only charity authorized to use Diana's name, likeness and marks, refused permission. Despite this, the Franklin Mint continued to use Diana's image, resulting in a trademark/right of publicity infringement lawsuit.

The case was settled out of court in 2004, but caused the Fund to freeze several grants. The Fund continued operations until 2013, when it was merged into The Royal Foundation. The irony of the situation is the Fund was hardly protective custodians of Diana’s image, squandering it by licensing several tacky items, including lottery scratch cards, scented candles, perfumes, memorial tartans and tubs of margarine. 

Regardless of the controversy, it helped raise the profile of the dress and permanently ensure Diana’s connection to it. Unlike Diana's other gowns, which have come up for auction multiple times, the Elvis dress remained with the original owners. The Franklin Mint donated the dress to the Victoria and Albert museum in 2006, where it is currently in storage. 

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© Marilyn Braun 2020

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you wish to use it for research purposes, a link to credit my work would be appreciated.

Sources

DRESSES from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales. Christie's auction catalogue

The Diana Chronicles by Tina Brown

Catherine Walker: An Autobiography by The Private Couturier to Diana, Princess of Wales

InStyle: Remember Princess Diana's "Elvis Dress"?

V&A - Elvis Dress

Diana Fund found on tubs of margarine

US Firm allowed to sue Diana fund

Court Case: Cairns vs. Franklin Mint Company

Defending Diana's Legacy