Diana wore some beautiful dresses during her 1992 trip to India, including a magnificent Mughal beaded gown no one got to see! Although not as colourful, this dress is just as stunning. It was worn with the Spencer tiara, to attend a banquet hosted by Vice President Dr. Shanka Dayal Sharma at the Nizam of Hyderbad, India in February 1992. She also wore it again in March 1992 to the premiere of Hear My Song.
It was lot 39 in the Christie's Auction. It is described in the auction catalogue: A Long Evening Dress of Black Silk Crepe and Diamante Paste Embroidery:
In Empire style, the bodice is embroidered in a manner inspired by Mughal embroidery.The black silk crepe skirt is gently gathered at the bodice.
Catherine Walker, the designer of the dress, offers further insight,
This dress was commissioned for an official visit to India. The more research I did for this dress the more I became lost in the rich complex pattern of Indian culture and its hybridization with the British influence of the Raj. I knew the Princess was intending to wear the Spencer tiara, and my daughter Marianne found a beautiful book for me on the decorative art of India, in which I came upon a sandalwood and ivory inlaid casket whose design seemed to compliment the tiara perfectly. The technical design of the embroidery drew upon this traditional pattern of marquetry, and the flatness of the stones is also particular to Indian jewellery.
It was originally bought at the Christie's auction by Kate McEnroe, head of American Movie Classics channel/WE Tv for $42,500. They purchased two other dresses at the sale, and acquired a fourth one privately.
They bought the dresses based on the romance Diana inspired. The network took their dresses on a shopping malls of America tour, with the tagline "Princess Diana's tour of Dresses to Die for". When Diana died, they renamed the tour 'Legacy of Love'. In 2007, the dress was included in an Auctioned Dress Reunion exhibit held at Appleton Museum of Art in Ocala, Florida and later in a Diana, Dresses of Inspiration exhibit.
It was subsequently auctioned in 2011 by Julien's Auctions in Beverly Hills for $144,000. The owners are the Museo De La Moda in Chile. They have a reciprocal relationship with Historic Royal Palaces and have lent this dress, and several others, to Kensington Palace exhibits.
Sources
Christie's Auction Catalogue; DRESSES from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales
Catherine Walker - Autobiography of The Personal Couturier to Diana, Princess of Wales
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