Showing posts with label Christie's. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Christie's. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 01, 2020

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Pistachio and Cream dress by Catherine Walker?

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This dress was worn for the film premiere of An Accidental Hero in 1993 and official events, such as the state banquet for President Mario Soares of Portugal. One of her first official events after the separation announcement in December 1992.  

Lot 17 is described in the Christie's auction catalogue as A Dinner Dress of Eau-De-Nil Green and Cream Silk Crepe by Catherine Walker.
The bodice and long sleeves of this dress are of broad green and cream horizontal stripes. Off-the-sholder, the dress has five jewelled paste buttons placed asymmetrically on the bodice. There are matching buttons on the sleeves. The skirt is slim, with a slit to the knee. 
Although she won rave reviews for this dress, there were also some critics who noted, because of her over developed shoulders, she should have covered them up. It is also interesting to note that the earrings she is wearing are made of the same buttons from the gown.  

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It was sold to Shari Graham for $34,500. She owns this dress as well as my favourite, the cream and salmon one. She has used both her gowns to raise money for charities such as Habitat for Humanity, Meals on Wheels and the American Heart Association. 

© Marilyn Braun 2020 

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Christie's Auction Catalogue: DRESSES from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales
Diana - Her Life in Fashion by Georgina Howell

Wednesday, June 24, 2020

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Grace Kelly inspired dress?

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When I look at this dress I can't think of anyone other than Grace Kelly. It is understandable as it was inspired by her look in the Alfred Hitchcock film, To Catch A Thief. So, it is hard to separate it from Grace Kelly and see it as a 'Diana dress'. Like many of her dresses, it was designed by Catherine Walker. It was lot 6 at the Christie's auction and is described in the auction catalogue as: A Classic Evening Dress of Chiffon:
Inspired by the classical simplicity favoured by Grace Kelly, the dress is strapless, of pale blue silk chiffon, intricately draped and tucked with a crossover yoke. There is a matching chiffon stole. 
It was worn at the 40th Cannes Film festival in January 1987 and July of the same year to the premiere of Superman IV. She also wore it to the opening of Miss Saigon in 1989 and official portraits by Terence Donovan. 

It has a bit of an interesting auction history. In 1997 it was bought by AMC/WE Tv network for $70,700 along with two others. The network wanted to take their dresses on a shopping mall tour titled 'Princess Diana:  Dresses to Die For.' Understandably, after Diana's tragic death, they quickly changed the title to 'Legacy of Love.' It has been exhibited in a variety of venues, including Dresses for Inspiration, as well as Kensington Palace. 

In 2007, the network tried to sell it on eBay for charity. It went from Christie's Auction House, the premiere auction house dating back to 1766, to EBAY, purveyor of Diana dolls and other royal tchotchkes. 

Let that sink in.    
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Luckily, it did not sell. With a starting bid of $300,000, either it wasn't the right audience or people just knew something so glorious deserved better. Instead it was sold by Julien's Auction House in Beverley Hills in 2011 for $137,500. The current owners are the Museo de la Moda in Santiago, Chile.

© Marilyn Braun 2020 

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Sources

Monday, June 22, 2020

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Tartan and Black Evening Gown?

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There is a strong tradition of Royalty in Scottish life. For generations, the royal family has enjoyed time at their estate in Balmoral and the Queen spends much of her summers there. At Balmoral, she finally gets the chance to relax and enjoy time away from the spotlight. During that time, the royals dress in their finery and hold an annual Ghilles Ball. This dress was made in 1990 for Scottish dancing and I can well imagine Diana, in this dress, trying to keep up with the Queen Mother while doing the Eightsome reel. But in February 1991, she also wore it to the Guildhall to support the The Royal Marsden Hospital Cancer Centre. 

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Lot 33 was designed by Catherine Walker and is described in the auction catalogue as A long dress for Scottish Dancing. 
The long-sleeved black velvet bodice is piped in scarlet velvet with a square neckline. The waist and cuffs are cut to a point as is the bust-line. The full skirt is of green black and red silk in a plaid design, worn over a black organza and black tulle petticoat embroidered with tulle flowers.
It was originally purchased at the Christie's auction for $46,000 by Maureen Rorech Dunkle, who bought 14 dresses at the auction. She created a Dresses For Humanity tour to raise funds for charity. In 2011 she declared bankruptcy and the dresses were auctioned at Waddington's Auction House in Toronto. However, only four of the dresses sold. The remaining 10 dresses were auctioned by Kerry Taylor Auction House in 2013. 

This dress is not included in the catalogue for the Kerry Taylor auction, which leads me to believe it was one of the dresses sold at Waddingtons. I'm not certain who purchased it in Toronto but I believe the current owner is Museo de la Moda in Santiago, Chile. 

© Marilyn Braun 2020 

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Sources

My Decade With Diana by Maureen Rorech Dunkle
Christie's auction catalogue: DRESSES from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales
Diana's Dresses - Dresses for Humanity Exhibition catalogue

Friday, June 19, 2020

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Black Silk-Crepe and Diamante dress?

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Diana wore some beautiful dresses during her 1992 trip to India, including a magnificent Mughal beaded gown no one got to see! Although not as colourful, this dress is just as stunning. It was worn with the Spencer tiara, to attend a banquet hosted by Vice President Dr. Shanka Dayal Sharma at the Nizam of Hyderbad, India in February 1992. She also wore it again in March 1992 to the premiere of Hear My Song.

It was lot 39 in the Christie's Auction. It is described in the auction catalogue: A Long Evening Dress of Black Silk Crepe and Diamante Paste Embroidery:

In Empire style, the bodice is embroidered in a manner inspired by Mughal embroidery.The black silk crepe skirt is gently gathered at the bodice. 
 
Catherine Walker, the designer of the dress, offers further insight,

This dress was commissioned for an official visit to India. The more research I did for this dress the more I became lost in the rich complex pattern of Indian culture and its hybridization with the British influence of the Raj. I knew the Princess was intending to wear the Spencer tiara, and my daughter Marianne found a beautiful book for me on the decorative art of India, in which I came upon a sandalwood and ivory inlaid casket whose design seemed to compliment the tiara perfectly. The technical design of the embroidery drew upon this traditional pattern of marquetry, and the flatness of the stones is also particular to Indian jewellery. 

It was originally bought at the Christie's auction by Kate McEnroe, head of American Movie Classics channel/WE Tv for $42,500. They purchased two other dresses at the sale, and acquired a fourth one privately. 

They bought the dresses based on the romance Diana inspired. The network took their dresses on a shopping malls of America tour, with the tagline "Princess Diana's tour of Dresses to Die for". When Diana died, they renamed the tour 'Legacy of Love'. In 2007, the dress was included in an Auctioned Dress Reunion exhibit held at Appleton Museum of Art in Ocala, Florida and later in a Diana, Dresses of Inspiration exhibit. 

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It was subsequently auctioned in 2011 by Julien's Auctions in Beverly Hills for $144,000. The owners are the Museo De La Moda in Chile. They have a reciprocal relationship with Historic Royal Palaces and have lent this dress, and several others, to Kensington Palace exhibits. 

Sources

Christie's Auction Catalogue; DRESSES from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales
Catherine Walker - Autobiography of The Personal Couturier to Diana, Princess of Wales

© Marilyn Braun 2020 

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Monday, May 04, 2020

Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Dramatic Black Velvet Evening Gown by Bruce Oldfield?

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Picture it. Diana, in all her 'Dynasty Di' glory, circa 1985. Alighting from her car, she is wearing a gloriously luxe black velvet gown by one of her favourite designers, Bruce Oldfield.

This dress has always been a favourite of mine. When I saw the dress for the first time at an exhibit in 1998, I wasn't sure it was the right one. Sure, it was black velvet, designed by Bruce Oldfield, but looking behind the dress, it had a black velvet rose with sparkling beads at the neckline. This detail is not apparent in photographs of Diana wearing it. But sure enough, it was there. According to the designer, the detail was added to prevent the dress from falling off Diana's shoulders.


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It was ordered by Diana after her friend, fashion editor, Anna Harvey, wore a similar design. It has a deep v-neck in front and back, draped waist and lightly gathered skirt. It was worn in 1985 at The Barbican for the first night gala performance of Les Miserables.  Diana also wore it in an official portrait by Lord Snowdon.

The dress was Lot #37 at the Christie's auction and purchased by Barbara Jordan, a Boston boutique owner. Ms. Jordan bought three dresses, paying $36,800 for the velvet Oldfield.  She bought it to publicize her boutique by displaying the dresses in the window and after Diana's death, it became somewhat of a shrine. A noted philanthropist, Ms. Jordan donated the dress to a Boston AIDS charity. It was auctioned by Skinner Gallery in October 1997 and purchased by Maureen Rorech for $200,000.

This dress travelled the world in the Dresses for Humanity tour and was eventually auctioned in 2013. Historic Royal Palaces confirmed it had purchased the gown for $68,000.

© Marilyn Braun 2020

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Sources

Bruce Oldfield Black Velvet Gown
Princess Diana's iconic dresses to go on display at Kensington Palace
DRESSES from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales auction catalogue
Dresses for Humanity exhibition catalogue
My Decade with Diana by Maureen Rorech Dunkel


Thursday, April 30, 2020

The Journey of Princess Diana's 'Elvis' Dress that launched a legal battle

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After her wedding dress and the John Travolta dressDiana's Elvis dress might be the third most well known of her outfits. Designed by Catherine Walker it is a remarkable example of craftsmanship and elegance, adding to the allure of an iconic princess.

The strapless sheath dress, in tinted white crepe silk, is embroidered with simulated pearls and white sequins. The jacket, with a stand up collar inspired by Elizabethan ruff, is edged in pearls. Designed for an official visit to Hong Kong in November 1989, the embroidery was by S. Lock Ltd. It was also worn for the British fashion awards in Albert Hall, London in 1989, in Budapest, and film premieres. Despite the original Elizabethan nod, it was nicknamed the 'Elvis dress.' It is estimated there are 20,000 hand embroidered pearls, and according to the designer, “What is not apparent from the pictures is the weight of the dress, which was immense“ 

Diana included the gown in her DRESSES from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales auction in June 1997. Prince William, who came up with the idea for the auction, thought the dress was ugly and reportedly said, "Mummy, it is too awful to sell." Thankfully Diana did not listen to him as the dress turned out to have the second highest bid. A Terrance Donovan photograph of Diana, wearing the gown and Lover's Knot tiara, is featured in the auction catalogue opposite a personal letter from Diana. 

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The dress was lot #78 at the auction. It sold for $151,000 to Lynda and Stewart Resnick, owners (at the time) of the Franklin Mint, as well as POM Wonderful and Fiji Water brands. According to court documents, when Lynda Resnick bought the dress at auction, ‘she did not intend to commercially exploit it.’

Nonetheless, the Resnick’s filed a trademark application on August 8, 1997 to produce “Diana - A forever Princess”, a 12-inch porcelain doll in a replica outfit. To ensure authenticity, Ms. Resnick had her staff count the beads so buyers would know the exact number on the original (22,000). The doll's dress was designed to scale with 2,000 hand-beaded fake pearls. The doll was an immediate hit and can still be found on eBay. 

In September 1997, the Resnicks made further trademark applications to use various product titles, including ‘Diana, the People’s Princess,’ Diana, Queen of Hearts,’ Diana, Angel of Mercy' and more. The Diana, Princess of Wales, Memorial Fund, authorized by Diana's Estate as the only charity authorized to use Diana's name, likeness and marks, refused permission. Despite this, the Franklin Mint continued to use Diana's image, resulting in a trademark/right of publicity infringement lawsuit.

The case was settled out of court in 2004, but caused the Fund to freeze several grants. The Fund continued operations until 2013, when it was merged into The Royal Foundation. The irony of the situation is the Fund was hardly protective custodians of Diana’s image, squandering it by licensing several tacky items, including lottery scratch cards, scented candles, perfumes, memorial tartans and tubs of margarine. 

Regardless of the controversy, it helped raise the profile of the dress and permanently ensure Diana’s connection to it. Unlike Diana's other gowns, which have come up for auction multiple times, the Elvis dress remained with the original owners. The Franklin Mint donated the dress to the Victoria and Albert museum in 2006, where it is currently in storage. 

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© Marilyn Braun 2020

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you wish to use it for research purposes, a link to credit my work would be appreciated.

Sources

DRESSES from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales. Christie's auction catalogue
The Diana Chronicles by Tina Brown
Catherine Walker: An Autobiography by The Private Couturier to Diana, Princess of Wales


Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Royal Book Challenge: My Decade With Diana by Maureen Rorech

5/500

My Decade with Diana: The Perpetual Power of the People's Princess by Maureen Rorech Dunkel
Published 2007
166 pages

I bought this book when I visited the collection of Diana's dresses at the Design Exchange in Toronto. Although this book is interesting, it's overpriced My rationale for purchasing it was that 100% of the proceeds from the sale would go to 'charities worldwide'.

In 1997 Maureen Rorech bought 13 of Diana's dresses from the Christie's auction for close to $700,000. She had bought the largest collection of dresses sold at the auction - by phone, without the catalogue. It's interesting to read about why she purchased the collection and what appealed to her about the individual dresses. Admitting she was unfamiliar with Diana's life, she purchased them as a business investment, little suspecting that it over the next 10 years would become much more than that. After Diana's death, Ms Rorech decided to take her collection and create a travelling exhibit, Dresses for Humanity, to raise money for causes that had been supported by Diana in her lifetime.

When it comes to travelling exhibits, people tend to look at it from the vantage point of a visitor, not necessarily thinking of the work involved in preparing it. This book presents the complicated process of putting together the exhibit and the logistics (and stresses) of doing so while maintaining the integrity of the dresses and of Diana's memory.

© Marilyn Braun 2012

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Going once, going twice, sold!! A brief history of royal auctions

There is an irresistible allure to owning something belonging to royalty. Whether the item is a famous jewel, such as the late Princess Margaret's Poltimore tiara to household items such as the Duke and Duchess of Windsor's clothing and furniture, each item holds a special cachet as a result of its provenance. In many cases the proceeds from these auctions have gone to charities of the royals choice or to cover estate death duties. Both auction houses Sotheby's and Christie's have conducted royal auctions, and Christie's has a particularly long association with the royal family, starting in 1773 when the property of the Princess of Wales, mother of George III was sold.

Princesses Eugenie and Beatrice
via British Monarchy Flickr
Princess Beatrice recently auctioned off the infamous and striking hat designed by Philip Treacy. She wore this hat to Prince William's April wedding and it sparked much comment and attention in the press. Unlike other royal auctions, which have been conducted by Sotheby's or Christie's, Beatrice sold the item through eBay. Wisely capitalizing on the hat's notoriety, she sold it, with the eventual proceeds - $123,325 split between UNICEF and Children in Crisis.

Christie's - Dresses from the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales - 1997
Via Ronald Reagan library
Inspired by Prince William, Diana, Princess of Wales sold 79 of her dresses, with proceeds of $3.6 million going to AIDS and cancer charities in the United States and the United Kingdom. Since the original sale, several of the dresses have been sold. In April, two dresses were sold for $279,000. 14 dresses, originally purchased by a Florida businesswoman Maureen Rorech Dunkel for $700,000 in 1997, will be sold in Toronto on June 23 through Canadian auction house Waddingtons. Through Ms Dunkel, the 14 dresses became a touring exhibit called Dresses for Humanity. The proceeds from these tours raised money for AIDS, cancer and children's charities globally. Included in this sale is the iconic ink blue Victor Edelstein dress that Diana wore when she danced with John Travolta at the White House in 1985.

Christie's - Property from the Collection of Her Royal Highness The Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon - 2006

Annigoni, Pietro (1910-1988) - 1957 Portrait of Princess Margaret (Christie's London, 2006)One of the most glamorous women of her generation, Princess Margaret was renowned for her beauty and for her good taste. In 2006 her children controversially auctioned off her belongings to cover the death taxes for her estate. The 780-lot auction included the Politmore tiara worn at her 1960 wedding. Also included, an extensive collection of jewels, Faberge, silver, paintings, furniture as well as this famous Pietro Annigoni portrait. The proceeds from this sale were £13.7 million.

Sotheby's - The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor - 1987

Arguably one of the most famous jewelery auctions in history, the Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor raised $50.3 million, 7 times its pre-sale estimate. To this day this auction holds the record for a single-owner jewelry collection. The auction comprised 305 lots, many bearing personal inscriptions and  including 87 pieces from Cartier, the Duke and Duchess's favorite jeweler, and 23 items by Van Cleef & Arpels. The proceeds of the original auction went to The Pasteur Institute in Paris. Since 1987, pieces from the Duchess of Windsor's collection have continued to command high bids. In 2010, 20 brooches bracelets and other gems sold for $12.5 million.

Christie's - Property from the Collection of HRH The Prince George, Duke of Kent and HRH Princess Marina, Duchess of Kent and their families - 2009

This auction was not the first time Prince George, Duke of Kent's belongings had been sold at Christie's. After his death in 1942, to raise funds, his widow Princess Marina sold items in a 3-day auction in 1947. The sale included English furniture, objects of art and porcelain and raised £92,300.

In 2009, 200 lots were sold, including linen, photographs, clocks, silver, tapestries, rugs, works of art monogrammed and inscribed jewellery as well as a collection of trowels. Highlights of the auction included a portrait of 3-year old Princess Louise by her mother Queen Victoria. As well as a chair and stool from the 1937 Coronation of his brother King George VI.  A similar chair was sold at Princess Margaret's auction in 2006. The  Duke of Kent's auction raised £2.1 million.

Sotheby's - Duke and Duchess of Windsor auction - 1998

The auction for the contents of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor's Paris home was originally set for September 11-19, 1997. But due to the deaths of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed, the son of Mohammed Al Fayed, owner of the Windsor's villa in Paris, the auction was postponed to February 1998. 40,000 personal effects belonging to the late Duke and Duchess were auctioned off. A wide range of items formed the auction, including the desk which the Duke, as King Edward VIII signed the Instrument of Abdication in 1936, a piece of their wedding cake, photographs, clothing, furniture, luggage, jewellery and all the way down to their monogrammed bathmats. The nine-day auction raised $23 million, three times the estimated value.

Christie's - Property from the Estate of His Royal Highness The Prince Henry, Duke of Gloucester - 2006

Prince Henry, Duke of Gloucester was the third son of King George V. Unlike his brothers, he did not possess magnetic charm nor a fine eye for antiques. Despite their royal provenance, the items in this auction are practical rather than of greater historical significance. The 787 lots include christening gifts, tableware, menu holders, ink stands, furniture, fishing rods, oar blades, backgammon sets, fire irons, fans, parasols, illuminated manuscripts and a dog bed. This auction raised £5.1 million. Proceeds from some items went towards estate taxes as well as the charities Clubs for Young People and the Army Benevolent Fund.

© Marilyn Braun 2011

Thank you for enjoying this article. If you use the information for research purposes, a link to credit the work I've put into writing it would be appreciated.