Whatever happened to Princess Diana's Silk Chiffon Purple Tulip and Green Leaves dress?

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This Catherine Walker dress was worn official visit to Nigeria, at a State Banquet in Lagos on March 15, 1989.  It is a stunning dress but unfortunately, I don't think she wore it more than once. Lot 69 Described in the auction catalogue

Of white silk chiffon, printed with deep purple tulips and green leaves, the bodice of this dress is folded in a pleat-like design to the hip and crossed over at the neck with a long streamer down the back. The dress has a low back and a gathered skirt of many metres of chiffon over white silk crepe, with a white silk petticoat.

Harper's Bazaar purchased the dress for $25,300. In 1998 it was donated by Mrs. Randolph Hearst, to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  It joins another Catherine Walker ballgown in their collection, which they also reluctantly accepted. At the time of the Christie's auction, Richard Martin, curator of the Costume Institute stated:

"This is the last great Cinderella story of the 20th century," Mr. Martin said earlier yesterday, "but that's not what the Metropolitan Museum looks for." He added that Diana's dresses had "associational" value because they were worn by her but did not in his view have historic or artistic value.

Even after her death, they continued holding this view.

While the Costume Institute had publicly stated it would not bid to buy any of Princess Diana's dresses in the 1997 Christie's auction, we said we might receive one in due course. Due or not, we have received two Catherine Walker ballgowns, both very characteristic of the princess' style for ceremonial but youthful evening wear. 

Would we have accepted the dresses if there had been no association with Diana? Probably not. But while I would not wish the Costume Institute to serve the cult of celebrity, clothing does not entirely lose its social an emotional dimensions simply because it is being considered by a museum. Fashion remains whole and human - always intimate, always feeling - and so must the museum's judgements. 

To date, the museum still owns this dress.

© Marilyn Braun 2020

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Sources

Met Museum: Ballgown 1989
Our New Clothes: Acquisitions of the 1990s
Met Publications: Recent Acquisitions, A Selection 1997-1998.
Browse the Met collection: Ballgown spring/summer 1990
Diana cleans out her closet and charities just clean up